Kate Moss's Calvin Klein Turn Rewrote the Rules of Runway Beauty

Long before "heroin chic" became shorthand and long after it stopped being useful shorthand, there was simply a nineteen-year-old on a Calvin Klein runway looking nothing like the supermodels around her — and fashion noticed. Where the era's runways ran on glamour, gloss and six-foot presence, Moss's 1990s debut for the house offered something quieter and, it turned out, more durable: an unpolished, off-duty ease that read as real rather than rehearsed. It didn't just get her booked again. It gave American fashion a new answer to the question of what beauty was supposed to look like, one the industry is still working from.

With reporting from WWD Fashion.