A Nobu and Torrisi Veteran Sets Up Shop in Queens, One Pie at a Time

Michelle Kogan spent her career in the pastry kitchens of Nobu and Torrisi, the kind of restaurants where a coat comes creased and dessert is composed. Now she is making pies, by hand, out of Queens — and they have become one of the city's hardest things to get a slice of. Kogan says the appeal is simple: she wants to make something "heartwarming and joyful," and has found it in crust rather than plating. It is a quieter set of credentials than a Michelin star, and, on the evidence of the wait, no less coveted.

With reporting from Vogue.